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Photoshop Resources! Part 1

Journal Entry: Sat Feb 26, 2011, 9:25 PM







Hello

Hello, I'm ~KsouthV2 (primary acc.) [~ksouth (4yr old acc)], and I'm a photography resources mod. I figured I'd write an article/blog to try and help people out.
*This was written based off photoshop CS2. Most of this should apply to versions as early as photoshop 7. This also applies to Elements I think.
**All the images in this were taken by me



Hotkeys/Shortcuts

Although not needed, having shortcuts will definitely improve your workflow. Here's some I use regularly:

New Layer
My work with wallpapers and such normally requires multiple layers. A lot easier than going to the layer panel every time just to add a new clear layer

Apply image
This can be found through Image>Apply image. What this does is make a duplicated layer of everything in your window. What I mean by this is that, with using duplicate layer, you'll only get the last layer duplicated. However with this, this will duplicate all layers, and compress them into a single layer. Before I found this out I would normally just make a new layer than close stamp the whole thing. It's best to do this on a NEW LAYER and not on a PRE-USED layer

Duplicate layer
Self explanatory

**Also, remember the shortcuts for undo and redo. CTRL+Z will only redo one action. CTRL+ALT+Z will redo multiple actions. Same goes for CTRL+Y and CTRL+ALT+Y (unless you changed these, these are the default)


Adjustment layers

These can be found through new layer>New adjustment layer. This is more or less the same as doing Image>Adjustments, with the exception that it's a lot easier to delete/correct if you mess up. Here's some I regularly use:

Levels

A lot of people like using curves. However, I'm a levels guy. With curves your restricted to that...curve. With levels you can correct darkness a lot better and give your photo's a faded effect.

Color balance

This is my saving grace. When I want to give my photo's that extra "umph!" (yes I really just typed that), this is my go-to adjustment. For shadows i'll normally use cool colors like blue's and purple's. For highlights i'll use warm color's like yellow/orange/red.

Selective color

If you want Adobe Lightroom but don't have the $, this might be the next best thing. This lets you change individual colors and gives you more control over highlights (white) and shadows (black)

Gradient Map

Nomally I'll do this, then set the blending mode to Lighten to give my photo's a washed out effect (just a warning, groups don't really like that as they don't know you've done it on purpose)

Photo filter

If i don't like the temperature in a photo (too blue/too orange) I'll normally use this to offset it

**And in case you guys have After effects, color balance and levels can also be applied to video


Lens flares and Lighting

These can be found through Filter>Render. I'll sometimes try and sneak a lens flare into my photo's just to give it some more impact. The way I do these (as they can't be applied to clear/opaque) layers is do Apply image to duplicate the image. Then I'll put the lens flare somewhere where there's a light source (lamp/sun/etc...) For lighting, I like using Soft Omni.
Real lens glare | Fake lens glare


Blending Modes

Feel that your photo's a little bland! Look no further! It's blending modes!
*Remember, I'm using CS2. If I remember correctly CS5 had a few more blending modes

Normal
Default blending mode

Dissolve
Will turn the layer into a really pixelated,spread out layer. Never been a big fan of this mode




Darken
Any dark spots will remain in the photo. All the light spots will disappear. Think of it as a stencil mode of sorts.

<Multiply
The equivalent to a lower exposure. Great for washed out sky's. Not so great for things with hard shadows.

Color burn
Same as multiply, except with more vibrance, and harsher dark spots

Linear burn
Linear burn + Multiply combined




Lighten
Opposite of darken. However, the layer underneath will try and fill the dark spots of your current layer instead of the dark spots disappearing

Screen
Same as a longer exposure/More bright

Color Dodge
All light spots become much brighter, remaining dark spots become vivid

Linear Dodge
Dumbed down version of color dodge




Overlay
Lights become lighter. Dark spots become darker. Midtones get more color. Great for washed out photo's/Bland photo's.

Soft Light
Slightly lighter darks than overlay. Much darker lights than overlay. Think overlay but a little less.

Hard Light
Except in rare cases, the same as overlay

Vivid light
Like color dodge except more vibrant and less over exposure

Linear light
Slightly lighter version of vivid light

Pin light
Like darkner/lighten, except it keeps midtones.

Hard mix
Vivid light on acid/Over vibrant version.




Difference
Creates a neon-esque effect in some cases.

Exclusion
Equivalent of inverting the colors.




Hue
Keeps lights and darks, turns midtones into the color(s) of the blended layer

Saturation
Varies. Don't really use this that much for a detailed explanation. When applied to a gradient map works better than hue sometimes

Color
Unlike hue, turns the whole image into the color(s) of the blended layer.

Luminosity
Like saturation, this varies. Sometimes results in a washed out effect


Photography Websites

DPS
[link]
This is the website that's taught me almost everything about photography. This website features photography tutorials and tips like composition all the way to camera reviews and lens choice help. (It also lead to my fetish for landscape photography ;p)

NYIP
[link]
It's kind of wierd for a college to have photo help right on their website, but NYIP (thankfully) does it. Great how-to articles written by pro's


Programs

Photoshop
Industry standard when it comes to photo manipulation. The only bad thing about it is the steep price.

GIMP
Free to use software which I used extensively for about 5 years before switching to photoshop. Great free alternative.

Paint.net
Another free alternative to photoshop.

(Adobe) Lightroom 3
The only reason I prefer 3 (over 2) is because of the insane noise reduction feature. A photo I took with an ISO of 6400 had no noise after I tampered with it. Also, it's functionality with RAW formats is great.I'd even say that if you mainly shoot in raw and don't do alot of photomanipulation,go for Lightroom over Photoshop


Fonts

Calibri (Microsoft Word 2010 default)

[link]
Really great,easy to read, sleek, font

Helvetica (Advertising standard)

[link]
Somewhat costly but well worth it. Netflix had a documentary about it, and from there I fell in love with it

Georgia

[link]
Times New Roman, but much better


Composition

Rule of thirds

[link]

Golden Ratio (related to rule of thirds)

[link]

Horizon Line

[link]

Leading Lines

[link]

Framing

[link]

Patterns

[link]

Long Exposures


Shadows


Split toning (in lightroom)

[link]

This will be the only one I really write about as it's hard to explain. But it's basically that you have the image only have 2 main colors, and both colors are opposite on the color wheel (contrasting colors). For example, you might have a blue sky, and turn the ground orange. You may have a yellow sky and turn the ground dark purple. Green background with red buildings. Hopefully you get the idea. This idea also applies to color balance within photoshop, and other color correction techniques.


Images Formats

RAW
Although briefly discussed earlier, I feel like it's worth mentioning again. I prefer RAW (or RAW+JPEG) over non-RAW format's due to the editing flexibility. With JPEG you lose a lot of camera data after the photo's been taken, and are restricted. With RAW formats however, you can reset the exposure, white balance, and more at your leisure.
Different types of RAW formats

Via [link]
    
.DNG (Adobe).CR2 / .CRW (Canon)
.MOS (CREO)
.RAF (Fujifilm)
.K25 / .KDC / .DCR (Kodak)
.PXN (Logitech)
.MEF (Mamiya)
.MRW (Minolta)
.NEF (Nikon)
.RAW (Panasonic)
.PEF (Pentax)
.TIF (Phaseone)
.TIFF / .TIF / .PEF (Samsung)
.SRF / .SR2 / .ARW (Sony)
.ORF (Olympus)
    
Opening RAW in photoshop

Camera Raw update
[link]
Different version for different version of Photoshop and newer camera's

Adobe DNG Converter
[link]
Converts the RAW to DNG format I guess

JPEG (Joint Photographic Experts Group)
The format you see everyday

JPEG 2000
A better but more uncommon version of JPEG. Used professionally.

EXIF
Normally included within JPEG, this is what tells you all the details of the photo (shutter/aperture/date and time)

TIFF (Tagged image file format)
Basically one notch down than RAW file's, although not as well supported.

GIF (Graphics Interchange Format)
Doesn't keep detail well, but is the only format that accepts animation

PNG Portable Networks Graphic
Successor to GIF. I've found it to hold more quality than JPEG, and it supports transparency

BMP (Windows Bitmap)
Very common for windows, along with some internet photo's

PPM, PGM, PBM, PNM
Used for ASCII

WEBP
Developed by google, the hopeful-successor to JPEG as it loads faster

CGM (Computer Graphics Metafile)
Used for vectors.

SVG (Scalable Vector Graphics)
Also used for vectors. Used more than CGM.


!!!!!!!

...my fingers are hurting from formatting all that. I can only imagine how ~KsouthV2's fingers feel lol. It took me an hour to format, I can only imagine how long it took him to actually type all that ><
-~SL-Photography


:points: Donate to Super Group fund :groups: :iconnox121::iconnox122::iconnox124:

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February 26, 2011
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:iconnaudi:
Mood: Joy ~Naudi Feb 27, 2011  Hobbyist Traditional Artist
thanks, very informative will sure help me improve :D
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:icondamaskangel:
*damaskangel Feb 26, 2011  Hobbyist General Artist
Thanks for the info. Learned some new things. :clap:
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